Thank you for pointing this out. Your solution is nice and simple. I did a search and found someone else asked about this a few years ago on reddit https://www.reddit.com/r/askmath/comments/rehou0/is_it_possible_to_simulate_a_d15_with_some/ Many complicated suggestions were given. One thing in I read in the reddit that may help: A quick way to convert d6 to d3 and d10 to d5 is to look at the die result on the top AND the bottom and pick the lower number. On d6 sides sum to 7 (1+6, 2+5, 3+4, giving d3 range of 1 to 3) On d10 they sum to 9 (treat 0 as zero, not 10: 0+9, 1+8, 2+7, 3+6, 4+5, giving range 0 to 4) If you don’t mind doing a little math To get a uniform probability for a range of 1 to 15 Roll a d6 and a d10 Treat as d3 & d5 And just take 5x the d3 minus the d5   The d3 gives 5, 10, or 15   The d10 minus 0 thru 4   Yields: 1 to 5, 6 to 10, or 11 to 15 See screenshots from anydice comparing d6+d10 vs 5*d3-d5 (+1 at end, since true d5 range will -1 to -5)

Hi Martin. Yes, old version. My post above was from April 2020 :-). I do download the newer versions when they come out. I still love this game and appreciate that you do keep it updated. Actually haven’t played D100 in a while as I have been playing Dungeon War. I even gave it a little review on Game Crafter. Thank you for all the fun games!

Thank you for the thorough and quick reply! Had forgotten about redrawing map tiles to avoid closing off all possible exits. Really enjoying this game!

Excellent. Thank you!

Thinking about this some more, as I am playing a 3rd time, I think I am starting to get it. As you say in the rules for special tiles: “For the purpose of movement” you move your tokens from space to space (to space) within the tile. I think I understand now, that is to symbolize moving slower through water or lava, or more carefully across the bridge. But for the purpose of attack / attack back one should not consider “far side of the bridge” or the like - the token is in that tile. Period. So, for my examples: 1: Orc can charge-attack because it moves to an empty tile next to Hero. One shouldn’t think of it as “near side of the bridge.” 2: Orc cannot charge-attack. If it tries to charge-attack, it starts (and ends) in a tile adjacent to the Hero, so even though it seems to “move” from “far side” to “near side” of bridge, that does not matter. It is just moving slower, more carefully, whatever, but is still in the same tile it started in. It may be easier to simply think that from that type of tile, it cannot charge within the tile, as it is still IN the lava, water, on the bridge… It may however just stay put and in the next step attack the Hero as it is adjacent. 3: Orc can charge attack. While it ends its movement on the “far side of bridge” that does not matter. It is not on the “far side” of anything, it is just moving slower, more carefully, whatever, but it still has entered the adjacent tile to the Hero. If the Enemy was a Goblin 1: Goblin can range-attack 2: Goblin is in a tile adjacent to the Hero, so cannot range-attack. But it can wait until the next step to do an adjacent attack, though it may risk attack-back (though I my specific situation the Hero already attacked the Troll) 3: Goblin can range-attack Am I getting it?

Welcome to the D100 Dungeon family! Having played since v2 back in 2018, I know you will love this game / game system. I was fortunate to pick up each of the supplemental books and accessories slowly over time as they came out, so I was never overwhelmed. That said, I feel pretty confident in the following advice. I would say if you had to pick just ONE addition to the Book 1 Basic Rules, I would actually advise Book 6 World Builder. Now, Book 2 Adventurer’s Companion has some great supplemental rules, which I use all the time. And it has a fantastic full campaign with side quests that could keep you entertained for months! So if you could get 3 books out of the gate I’d highly recommend Book 2 as well as Book 6. But regardless, you will start with Book 1. And I strongly advise putting any supplement(s) aside and jump in with Book 1 alone for your first Adventurer. Play through the first 5 starting Quests and then keep Questing to build up your Adventurer’s as well as your own experience with the game. Maybe even make another Adventurer or two with different stats to see how differently the game can unfold. When you feel comfortable with the flow of dungeon delving, combat and questing, I think you should expand to the incredible fun of building a world, YOUR world, in which your Adventurer travels and explores, as well as quests, with Book 6.

Thank you for the quick reply! This prompted me to re-read the rule and also re-watch the play-through video, in which you did in fact demonstrate the Door rule, at 18:40 https://youtu.be/WrnjZsbe37M?si=xu8Xiut96uNIqAQ7 Well, that’s bad news for my Hero (I already finished that game and played it wrong). Can I ask for the rationale for placing the Door in the middle of the tile as opposed to a specific entry? Maybe I’m not understanding the basic idea of what each tile represents. I’m very used to D100 Dungeon so was considering each tile as a sizable area like at least a room or cavern in the dungeon. Is it more like a person-sized or creature-sized area? But even then, wouldn’t one still pick a specific junction for the door? Hope I’m not being dense here. Anyway, very much enjoying the game. Thanks again.

I am a little late in replying, but here is a list I made for you of Skills and in what situations their bonus is applied. Agility: used for various traps and geographic conditions Aware: used when testing Petrify, Surprise, and various traps Bravery: used when testing Fear Dodge: used when testing Fire, Freeze, Stun, Web Escape: used when Adventurer attempts to Escape from combat and also to Block Escape of Monsters Locks: used for tests of Locked Doors and Treasure Chests Lucky: used when testing Petrify, casting spells, scrolls, and various traps Magic: used when casting spells and scrolls Strong: used when trying to open Jammed Doors, lift or move traps and obstacles, swim, climb, etc. Traps: used for various traps, including Trapped Doors and Treasure Chests Additionally, World Builder adds these skills, which are fairly self explanatory: Fishing, Haggle, Hunting, Riding, Survival I made the following as a quick reference which I update as my adventurer’s characteristics (Str, Dex, Int) as well as Skills improve. Surprise: Int-10 + (Aware) = _____ [F: Mon Atk] Fear: Int-10 + (Bravery) = _____ [F: skip PC Attack, Combat Action (but may attempt to Escape)] Escape: Dex-10 + (Esc) = _____ [F:-2HP, Mon Atk] Block Esc: Str-10 + (Esc) = _____ [F: Mon Esc] Attack (Str/Dex) = _____   Fly: Str-10 = _____   Phase: Str/Dex-10 = _____ Fire: Dex-5 + (Dodge) = _____ [F: -2HP] Freeze: Dex + (Dodge) = _____ [F: -1 HP, -2 DEF next round] Petrify: Int+20 + (Aware) + (Lucky) = _____ [F: death] Stun: Str-15 + (Dodge) = _____ [F: skip PC Attack, Combat Action, and Escape] Web: Dex+20 + (Dodge) = _____ [F: skip PC Attack, Combat Action, and Escape]

I did each “published adventure” in the order they came out. However, I made a new adventurer for each. One could use the same adventurer, I guess, but you run the risk of becoming over powered.  That said, you may need an overpowered adventurer for The Rune Forge! So you can do them in any order, but I’d advise a seasoned adventurer for Book 7.   Book 2, The Adventurer’s Companion, has The Goblin and the Goblet Campaign, plus the Table QA Side Quests.   Book 3 has The Dragon Armour Adventure, in the style of “choose your own adventure.”   Book 4, Lost Tome of Extraordinary Rules, has no adventure or campaign, but lots of great rules.   Book 5, The Dragons Return, has the Martial Artistry rules in addition to the campaign, plus the Table QB side quests.   Book 6 is the amazing World Builder book.   Book 7, The Rune Forge Adventure. Now this was a challenging adventure. In fact I ran it twice, as I nearly failed with my first adventurer, so I made a more robust adventurer for the second go and still had trouble.

Dude that is really slick!!! Thank you for sharing that clip. Yeah when I play I have my iPad with the Adventurer sheet PDF open using my Apple Pencil to update it, plus I have the PDF with all the Tables open in iBooks, so I can swap between those and find what I’m looking for pretty fast, and my iPhone on the side with the Dice & Dragons app for rolling. Love the game!!!

As you may know, Martin has the Dice Roller App, though it is only available on Google Play for Android devices. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=appinventor.ai_mkgames.D100_DUNGEON I use an iPhone and iPad. See my comments and screenshots in this thread on how I use my iPad. I didn’t mention that for rolling dice virtually, I use an app called Dice & Dragons on my iPhone. Makes for very streamlined gameplay. https://apps.apple.com/app/id581040723 In the app, you can make preset rolls with a variety of icons and sounds,   so I made them and arranged them as you can see in the screenshot: MonRxn: a d10 roll for monster reaction. Mon Sp: a d10 roll for monster special actions, such as “dark magic“ PC Atk: a d100 roll for my adventurer’s attack roll, as well as d100 skill tests PC Dmg: a d6 plus a d10 roll for my adventurer’s damage & location.   When I have Perfect Aim, I can add another, different color, d10 to the preset so I can pick the better location.   When I have Might Blow I can make the preset Re-roll 6s on the d6. MonAtk & MonDmg same idea, I just use different icons and different color dice. Overall a fun app. If I recall the free version has a limited set of dice colors but otherwise fully functional. And you can make multiple “characters” so I have a unique dice set up for the different games I play in addition to d100 Dungeon.

Attached are some of my sheets. Main issue is what I call "PDF bloat. At first the PDF is like 10 MB but soon bloats to 500MB+. I usually then transfer notes to a new PDF and keep going.

I open the PDFs on my iPad and use Apple Pencil. As you can see also added some reminder text in the margins for quick reference during play. I have done same/similar for D100 Space.

I have the same situation. Made my Cyboid Captain some time ago, soon had 80 INT and CM 60. I still roll for Jump, Cruise, other INT tests just in case I roll 100 for an automatic fail. It is what it is: an intelligent Cyboid will find lower class ships very easy to pilot.

I was thinking very similarly. Playing so far I initially thought of one training session per hex, spending one “day,” and an AP and ration, a session being (as per Beast Mastery) one training test roll per beast level, up to fail or level up.  So with my level 1 Cave Cub Osbourne, the first hex I got a fail. The next two hexes each passed, so one pip each. The fourth hex a fail. Then when I entered the next hex where there was a Quest. I did not use my beast for the quest, though arguable I could have Re-trained as it was a new hex, before going on the  quest… SO I can see how this could make it too fast to level up and too easy to “pass in time for quest.” Moving forward I will only train during settlement action. Will keep you posted. PS if interested see map, my story so far… After The Rune Forge Adventure, traveled across the sea to a new land for new adventures. Landed at the Swamps of the Spider then headed northeast through the Warlock’s Grasslands into the Grasslands of Magic, scouting the surrounding areas along the way. Healed up and resupplied in Earthtop, but unfortunately no one there was available to repair any of my damaged armor. Continued southeast through the Tundra of Hurting then onto the Shaking Sea where I embarked on a quest to clear out a Giant Spider’s Nest. Took a beating as my armor was in poor repair, even lost a couple pieces, but survived and succeeded to earn my reward. Definitely need to find a settlement to heal up and repair or replace my armor.

As for Training Beast Companions, would that only be done during Settlements actions, like most other "Between Your Next Quest" actions, or can we Train our Beast once a day, spending 1 AP and 1 ration? Your thoughts?

Excellent! These make perfect sense. A higher level beast is less likely to be uncontrolled or cause a ruckus from a passing cart, and the training test is the perfect solution, as it tests if my adventurer can control the beast in terms of strangers offering rides in carts and behaving around mounts. Amazing how you generate such logical and reasonable rules so quickly! I'm going to incorporate these and will try to remember to give you feedback here. Thank you!

Naming him Osbourne. As in born of bears, it just hit me (plus I've always been a bit of an Ozzy fan)

Thank you for the quick reply, as always. I had considered that on days when my adventurer hunts, traps, gathers, and fishes we could assume the beast is foraging for itself, but on other days, like travel, settlements, scouting, etc., I'd need to provide it with food. Also, how about if I flag down a cart, might it be harder if I have a beast? And if I get a mount will they get along? Ha ha. I think I’m over thinking this! I will keep it simple for now and assume the beast successfully forages on its own, travels quietly along side any carts I flag down, and does not disturb any mounts I acquire. PS for full disclosure, I took my adventurer from The Rune Forge, who tamed a Cave Cub, and had him “travel across the sea to new lands” and started world builder with him. His first order of business was to hunt and fish to gain rations. Worried about feeding my little Cave Cub prompted my ponderings. I think it needs a name! Love this game!

Would defer to Martin but as long as I have played I deduct the 2 HP damage from my adventurer immediately and, if still alive ;-) rhen roll my adventurer‘s combat action followed by the monster’s combat action. So I have treated it as upfront, additional damage.